Laura Godfrey, our food contributor, has surpassed herself this month. We’re amazed with her beautiful photography and we love how she blends her cooking skills and knowledge into an art form.
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One of the greatest joys of eating with the seasons is how everything is transformed into a treat. When ‘everyday’ is not a precursor to a vegetable, it feels exciting; a rarity; a fleeting pleasure to be treasured. Exclusivity tastes so much sweeter.
One of my favourite seasonal delights is wet or green garlic. Once the preserve of organic box schemes and farmers’ markets, it can now be found in large supermarkets looking a little like a odd leek-onion hybrid amongst the fresh herbs. This young garlic is much milder than its dried counterpart. Use it like a spring onion, slicing the whole bulb.
Cooking fish on the bone, head remaining, keeps it wonderfully succulent and the flavoursome oils will soak into the potatoes, mingling the flavours. Food education can start young: I think it’s important to understand and appreciate where our food comes from and serving whole fish is a great real-food experience for children. Ask your fishmonger to gut and scale the fish for you.
This is beautiful simplicity. Fish oils may be scientifically proven to boost the brain but this is food for the soul, not just the mind. Leftovers can be enjoyed with a dollop of mayonnaise or thrown into a kedgeree of sorts for the following day’s brunch.
A mandolin makes light work of the potatoes, if you have one, otherwise slice as thin as possible.
Roast Sea Bream with New Potatoes & Wet Garlic
Two whole small sea bream (around 350 grams each)
2 tablespoons rapeseed/vegetable oil
300 grams new potatoes, scrubbed
1 bulb wet garlic
1 lemon, halved
Small glass of white wine
Handful of chopped dill
Sea salt and black pepper, to season
Preheat the oven to 180 degrees C.
Slice the potatoes and whole bulb of wet garlic thinly and toss with the oil and the juice of half of the lemon. Season well and spread out in a large roasting tin. Cover with foil and roast in the middle of the oven for 10-15 minutes until the edges begin to brown.
Discard the foil and place the fish on top of the potatoes. Slice the remaining lemon half and place inside the cavities of the fish. Pour over the glass of wine and place back in the oven for 20 minutes until the potatoes and fish are cooked through.
Toss over plenty of dill and serve straight from the dish, scraping the fish from the bone with a spoon and drizzling with the divine juices from the pan.